Wow wow wow.

Today we had a relatively short 24 km day. The first 6 or 7 were all on asphalt and took us through one tiny little hamlet after another. At the end of our road walking, right before a steep two km descent to the Minho River, is a little 12th century church with some beautiful carving. Our favorite was the cow heads, which as Reb accurately described, are "sweet."  

Then came the descent on an old Roman mining road, known now as "Belesar's elbows" because of its shape. Once at the river level, you cross the bridge Andrade to ascend as much as you just descended. Amazing beautiful views, of river and forest and vineyards. 

On the way up the other side, a guy working in the fields invited us in to see the bodega's operations, from vineyards to aging to bottling. Very interesting. He took our picture and asked if he could post it on their Facebook page. So if you're ever looking at the Via Romana's Facebook page and see two familiar faces, you'll know why. 

We are now in the small city of Chantada, in a hotel that seems to have recently remodeled, leaving only half of its 60s decor. Clean and great showers, who cares about the style. 

I'm sure there are other days on other Caminos with as much beauty as this one, but today ranks right up there with the best of them. 

30 lovely kms from Quiroga

I'm We are in the very nice Casa Rural Torre Vilariño, having had a super walk through rural Galicia. Lots of pretty little hamlets, green tunnels, and the occasional mud bath. We arrived in the regional center city of Monforte de Lemos around 10 am and had a delicious cafe con leche served with a piece of chocolate and a delicate nut cookie. 1€. We are not in Catalunya any more. 

The last time I walked through here the marking was awful and I had a terrible time of it. Things have changed and the marking is excellent. People are very friendly, call us "cariños" (dears) and wish us well. Also unlike 4 years ago, the villagers know that we're walking to Santiago and have heard of the Camiño do Inverno. 

This has been one of those days for constant gratitude. How did I get so lucky??? 

Our place tonight. 

Fun in Pobra

With a small investment, the mayor transformed what used to be a somber river walk into a real treat for young and old!  

And the river continues pretty as ever after the town pool. 

93 degrees at 7:30 pm!  Early rising tomorrow. 

Beautiful walk to A Pobra de Brollon

GThough we heard there was a heat alert out, we made it easily and painlessly to our next stop, about 25 km from Quiroga. The first 14 were essentially though a pine forest, steady up and down, with lovely views and great walking surfaces (dirt occasionally covered with pine needles).  

After about 16 km we came to the perfect rest stop, a tiny hamlet with a pretty old bridge and a nice grassy bank for sitting and having our sandwich. Very refreshing and beautiful. 

 

The last 8 or 9 started out very hot and kind of reminiscent of yesterday's end of stage slog, but after a few kms of sunny ascents, we got ack into the groove and were soon in the little town of A Povra. Reb had stayed in this little Hostal before and it is a friendly family run cafe-restaurant with a few rooms upstairs. The señora will wash our clothes (oh what luxury) and we are going to have a home cooked meal, so we are quite content. And, fingers crossed, Reb may even walk all the way with me into Santiago!!!  

Hot day to Quiroga.

The GPS says only 28.5 but it felt like a lot more. We left early and the first part of the walk was along a totally unused paved road with great views down to the Sil River. 

It was cloudy at first but by noon the sun was out in full force. We went through several towns that are hanging on to life by the smallest of margins. Very few residents under 60 or even 70 in most of these places. 

We found a little shack by the river where we could sit in the shade and have a cold drink. That felt good, but those last 9 km from there to town were mostly sunny and hot (with the exception of one long green tunnel down to the water and then back up the other side. 

We were very happy to arrive in Quiroga, whose main street seemed impossibly long. We passed the albergue and were quite relieved that we weren't going to be sleeping there, as the place was overrun with a huge group of young teens. Finally we came to the Hostal Quiper, got a two bed room for 30€ and are happy just lying clean on the bed with our sweaty clothes washed and hanging outside. Life is good. 

Making my way --slowly

I left the pension today around 7, knowing that I had an extremely short walk. Great timing, the 13-14 km were very flat and virtually no rocks!! Just unpaved and flat or some paved and flat. Not too much inspiring scenery, but there were some pretty river views. 

My knee was very cooperative and only squawked at me once or twice. But then, slowing down and being patient seemed to do the trick. 

I was in town by about 9:15, which felt really odd. But I got my very first proper desayuno, with a croissant, seated in a  nice covered terrace with flowers. About ten minutes into this luxurious coffee, the phone rang and it was my good friend Paco from Madrid. These unexpected contacts are so terrific, they just shoot the warmth of friendship through my veins, especially when I'm walking alone. We are trying to work out a rendezvous on the camino before Santiago, which would be great. 

I'm in the private albergue run by Asun, president of the local camino asociarían. Her 92 year old mother is still very active and loves to talk. They are wonderful people.

 Asun is working hard on the long delayed but often promised official recognition for this camino. She is guardedly optimistic that the wheels are rolling and it won't be long. It would make a huge difference in the viability of this camino and would undoubtedly be the catalyst for more albergues. We have spoken with many "locals" about the need for albergues, but it's the quintessential chicken and egg problem. People don't want to invest in an albergue when there are so few pilgrims, but more pilgrims won't come because there are so few albergues. 

My good friend Rebekah, who lives along the Camino Frances but has walked the Invierno, should be stepping off a local train around 8 pm, and we will start out for Quiroga together tomorrow morning. So lucky to have such good company coming my way! 

A new camino

Yesterday was a long day for me and my knee, so I knew I was going to have to slow down. Today's walk had a lot of descent, not the best for a gimpy knee, but I met up with the gang after 8 km and told them I was slowing down. It was hard to say goodbye to Lee, but it was clearly the right thing. 

The walk was lovely-- the first 8 km were through the mountains down tip the border with Galicia. The next 20 km were along the Sil River with ups and downs but nothing too strenuous. No pics because my phone battery was dead. 

Now I've got a revised walking schedule with only a few days close to 30 km, and none more than 31, so I should be fine. 

I am now in O Barco de Valdeorras, which has a very pretty park on the Sil river. Here I said goodbye to Armando. Who knows, we may all meet up again in Santiago.

I have spent a few cool hours in the park watching the knight kids go tubing over some little white water rapids, while the small kids feed the ducks and stay in shallow water. 

  I now have less than two weeks walking so I have to forget about this knee thing and just enjoy!!!