I had great intentions of editing my pictures and making the total a more reasonable number, but in the end, I just don't have the time. But I don't feel too bad because it's easy to flick through rapidly. This is truly one (well, three actually) of the most varied, spectacular and monumental caminos I have walked. Highly recommended.
Pictures here: My 2015 Camino: St. Jaume, Catalán, Aragonés, Invierno
Tuesday, November 3, 2015
Monday, July 20, 2015
Santiago whirlwind
Since I just got an email from a friend asking if I am ok, I thought I'd update to say I'm done and home.
Last Tuesday, the 14th, Paco arrived in Ponte Ulla in late afternoon. I took him back a few km on the Camino into Ponte Ulla, so he could see a bit of the terrain I had covered that day. We met an elderly couple (he, 88, she 83) who at 5:30 were still working in the same garden where I had seen them about five hours earlier. We stopped and talked, and when I can get my camera pictures on the computer, I'll add a picture. The man had had several serious health problems but assured me that the best therapy is working in the garden. The woman told us she was from the little town where we were standing, but that her husband came from far away -- turns out he was from a village about 15 km to the east. They told us about their life, their families, and how they roll with the punches that mother nature throws their way. Because there has been no rain for more than two months, this year's harvest looks grim. They were trimming their potatoes and getting them ready to harvest, but were not looking forward to a good yield. A good dinner of pimientos de padron (those little green peppers that are so yummy) and pulpo (just a few bites for me, I can't take a lot of octopus), and then off to bed.
On Wednesday, no need to rush since we were only 20 km from Santiago. The first four km are uphill, to Outeiro, home of the last albergue on this route. The hospitalera was there cleaning, and she was very happy to chat (saying she remembered me, since I've been there three times before) and show Paco around. Paco has never stayed in an albergue and was a very inquisitive observer of this camino stuff. It was so interesting hearing his observations and insights -- yes, he's right, we camino addicts are a bit freaky, but in a good (usually) way. We had a great walk in, with the sobering moments a few km outside of Santiago when we crossed the railroad tracks at the point where the train had gone off the tracks a few years ago. Many personal memorials were a sharp reminder of the randomness of tragedy, and it seems there has been no resolution of the many pending complaints and lawsuits.
Once in Santiago, we headed for the pilgrims office, where Paco watched me stand in line to get my compostela (I've lost count). Three or four people behind the counter recognized me from my volunteer stint last May, and it was like a big homecoming. They are such great people, I would love to do it again. Then we had a meeting with Lee (we walked together from Montserrat till my knee gave out), who had found and adopted a dog, and off she went to Najera, where she is now a hospitalera for two weeks.
The rest of the time is kind of a blur. Walks around, some shopping for olive oil and saffron and a few other things, seeing a few more friends, eating a good goodbye meal. Then Thursday morning, at 7:30, I hopped into a cab (first time ever that I didn't take the bus!!!) to the airport and began what turned out to be a 25 hour trip home. Lots of delays, but no real problems.
Now I'm home, jetlagged, trying to go through the piles on my desks at home and in the office. My knee is still not in perfect shape, lots of clicking, so I will be heading to my favorite physical therapist soon. The Camino seems so distant, as it always does, but soon when the rush of immediate tasks is done I'll have time to sit and look back and put the pieces together. And start thinking about next year's camino!
Last Tuesday, the 14th, Paco arrived in Ponte Ulla in late afternoon. I took him back a few km on the Camino into Ponte Ulla, so he could see a bit of the terrain I had covered that day. We met an elderly couple (he, 88, she 83) who at 5:30 were still working in the same garden where I had seen them about five hours earlier. We stopped and talked, and when I can get my camera pictures on the computer, I'll add a picture. The man had had several serious health problems but assured me that the best therapy is working in the garden. The woman told us she was from the little town where we were standing, but that her husband came from far away -- turns out he was from a village about 15 km to the east. They told us about their life, their families, and how they roll with the punches that mother nature throws their way. Because there has been no rain for more than two months, this year's harvest looks grim. They were trimming their potatoes and getting them ready to harvest, but were not looking forward to a good yield. A good dinner of pimientos de padron (those little green peppers that are so yummy) and pulpo (just a few bites for me, I can't take a lot of octopus), and then off to bed.
On Wednesday, no need to rush since we were only 20 km from Santiago. The first four km are uphill, to Outeiro, home of the last albergue on this route. The hospitalera was there cleaning, and she was very happy to chat (saying she remembered me, since I've been there three times before) and show Paco around. Paco has never stayed in an albergue and was a very inquisitive observer of this camino stuff. It was so interesting hearing his observations and insights -- yes, he's right, we camino addicts are a bit freaky, but in a good (usually) way. We had a great walk in, with the sobering moments a few km outside of Santiago when we crossed the railroad tracks at the point where the train had gone off the tracks a few years ago. Many personal memorials were a sharp reminder of the randomness of tragedy, and it seems there has been no resolution of the many pending complaints and lawsuits.
Once in Santiago, we headed for the pilgrims office, where Paco watched me stand in line to get my compostela (I've lost count). Three or four people behind the counter recognized me from my volunteer stint last May, and it was like a big homecoming. They are such great people, I would love to do it again. Then we had a meeting with Lee (we walked together from Montserrat till my knee gave out), who had found and adopted a dog, and off she went to Najera, where she is now a hospitalera for two weeks.
The rest of the time is kind of a blur. Walks around, some shopping for olive oil and saffron and a few other things, seeing a few more friends, eating a good goodbye meal. Then Thursday morning, at 7:30, I hopped into a cab (first time ever that I didn't take the bus!!!) to the airport and began what turned out to be a 25 hour trip home. Lots of delays, but no real problems.
Now I'm home, jetlagged, trying to go through the piles on my desks at home and in the office. My knee is still not in perfect shape, lots of clicking, so I will be heading to my favorite physical therapist soon. The Camino seems so distant, as it always does, but soon when the rush of immediate tasks is done I'll have time to sit and look back and put the pieces together. And start thinking about next year's camino!
Monday, July 13, 2015
Weaving through the countryside
This very short stage, about 16 km from Bandeira to Ponte Ulla, weaves its way through little hamlets and past working farms. Lots of flowers and carefully tended gardens.
(Note the high speed rail line above this little old sanctuary).
With so much time, I was happy to walk a stretch with two women out for their morning walk. "Better for me than all those pills I take," one told me. They are both retired, but each still raises four cows for meat (the max they're allowed, apparently), tends a huge garden, and cares for a bunch of chickens. Not so retired, I thought.
My next chat was with one of the owners of a new albergue in a beautiful old house in Leiras. An Italian couple with small twin daughters has come back to the camino to give it a go. Fingers crossed, I wish them well.
And then finally the old couple working in their dried out garden. Since the land is far from their home, they have no water access, and everything is dead or dying after months of no rain. As they were telling me their story, the high speed train went whizzing by in the distance, and I thought once again how Spain is really still two worlds.
I'm in a pension where Paco will meet me this afternoon. It will be so great to have company on this last leg in. I have been meeting pilgrims these last few days, but there's nothing like finishing up with a good friend. Santiago tomorrow!
Sunday, July 12, 2015
Dragging a bit
I think this is the first Camino I've ever felt like I'm running out of gas. I've hobbled into Santiago before, with bad blisters or sharp heel pain, but I don't think I've ever felt this physically drained. It's not a bad feeling, it doesn't hurt, but it feels weird not to be able to walk at my normal pace. This has been my most challenging camino by far, not because of the terrain but because of the distances of the stages. I'm glad I did it, but equally glad that I had the time to slow down towards the end. Good thing Paco is arriving to push me the last 20 kms to Santiago. :-).
Today's 24 kms were very nice. First three kms along a river walk, then a few more through an industrial park, just so you won't get spoiled by too much natural beauty. And then magically the Camino de Invierno was finished and I had arrived at the junction with the Camino Sanabres. I've walked this last part on at least four different Caminos that merge here but I always enjoy the Romanesque bridge in the woods
And the little 12century church with a carving of Samson.
And then the cool quiet kms into Silleda,
about 15 kms into the walk, with good cafes for a long break.
The last 8 or 9 were slow going but I'm still so happy and thankful to be doing this camino, even if I am starting to feel like the little engine that could!
There is now an albergue in this town, Bandeira, but I thought it would be disloyal to the Hostal Victorino to jump ship after three earlier stays here -- see the many ways I can justify not staying in albergues?!
Saturday, July 11, 2015
Saturday stroll
I knew I was only going to walk the 22 km into Lalin, so there was no need to set an alarm or worry about time. The heat was the only concern but I was pretty sure I would have no trouble getting to my destination before it got too hot. Up at 7:25, out around 8.
Lots of people out and about in the little hamlets on the first half of the walk. All eager to chat--about their cows, the lack of young people (a very common concern), the lack of rain, their barking dogs, etc. Nothing too earth shattering but I have found that the people on this route are very interested in the people who walk. They probably think we're a bit daft.
The second part was very different. No towns, just a wide track of very loose and dusty dirt. Up and down a few times, sometimes through fields, sometimes pine forest, and even my favorite, scrub oak and a few other trees I can't identify.
Lalin seems to be a lively little town. I got a special pilgrim deal in a nice little two-star hotel. 35 euros gets you a clean room and bath, main meal and breakfast.
My knee is holding up but will be glad to be done in three days. Hard to believe I'm so close to Santiago.
My rest day
Yesterday when I finished walking, I called my friends who own the Casa Santo Estevo in the Minho Valley. Ian drove to pick me up, and It was like arriving in my own little paradise. I spent the late afternoon walking through the woods and vineyards, with no pack on my back! And right next door is a beautiful 12century church so you know I'm in heaven.
Dinner and then just sitting outside on the terrace, watching as the stars came out. It was an amazing evening.
Today was just for hanging around. We went to a place on the Miño where a friend has a vineyard/bodega and took a very nice walk. Just beautiful.
In late afternoon, they so nicely drove me back to where I stopped walking, the small town of Rodeiro. Here I am, with a room in the spotless Hospedaxe Guerra, where I slept last time I walked this route. A very friendly, small, family run place. And tomorrow I start the last few days to Santiago.
Thursday, July 9, 2015
How quickly things change
Yesterday the temps were in the 70s, I was walking with Rebekah, and we sauntered into Chantada with not one drop of sweat on our clothes or our bodies. Today the sun is beating down with the high projected for the mid 90s, I'm walking alone, and I just arrived at today's destination dripping and certainly not sauntering. I miss Rebekah, but things came up and she had to head home. We'll walk together again, that's a no brainer. It was great.
Today's walk, in spite of the heat, was very nice. Leaving town you pass an old "peto de animas," an alms box for the souls in purgatory. There are several of these on today's walk, all with carvings of the poor souls awaiting alms for their release. 
The walk first went through several small hamlets, and thankfully all the loose dogs I remember from last time were nowhere to be seen. Near the top of the day's steep climb (about 1700' I think), I saw a bus parked by the road with a small group busily putting out a large breakfast table. Turns out that right behind me was a group of 40, whose leader I had met last week by chance. They are a camino club from Ponferrada and have arranged breakfast stops, sag wagons, luggage transfer, meals, etc. I enjoyed a coffee break with them and had a delicious slice of country bread with jamón serrano, manchego, and membrillo. That gave me plenty of energy for the last push to the top, the Alto de Faro. Described as the spiritual center of Galicia, you can see all four Gallego provinces from the little church.
From there it was an interminable walk along a windmill ridge, till I finally descended and found my way into town.
Once again I'm incredibly lucky. My friends Ian and Irene, who own a BEAUTIFUL Casa rural (called Santo Estevo), are coming to pick me up so I can luxuriate with a rest day before the final push into Santiago.
And even MORE good news. I got an email from my Madrid buddy Paco that he is (crazily) flying up to Santiago on the 13th. He will make his way to my last night's town, and we'll walk into Santiago together on Tuesday the 14th. How lucky am I??
Home on the 16th. If you have requests for anything I can get in Spain, speak up now!
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