With so much time, I was happy to walk a stretch with two women out for their morning walk. "Better for me than all those pills I take," one told me. They are both retired, but each still raises four cows for meat (the max they're allowed, apparently), tends a huge garden, and cares for a bunch of chickens. Not so retired, I thought.
My next chat was with one of the owners of a new albergue in a beautiful old house in Leiras. An Italian couple with small twin daughters has come back to the camino to give it a go. Fingers crossed, I wish them well.
And then finally the old couple working in their dried out garden. Since the land is far from their home, they have no water access, and everything is dead or dying after months of no rain. As they were telling me their story, the high speed train went whizzing by in the distance, and I thought once again how Spain is really still two worlds.
I'm in a pension where Paco will meet me this afternoon. It will be so great to have company on this last leg in. I have been meeting pilgrims these last few days, but there's nothing like finishing up with a good friend. Santiago tomorrow!
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