On our way to Pamplona!

We have finished the Camino Aragonés and have joined the Camino Frances. We saw more people in five minutes than I've seen walking since June 4. 

We left Monreal at about 5:45 because the forecast is for 40 ( which is, to be exact, 104 Fahrenheit). The first 14 kms to the little town of Tiebas were  up and down along the side oh a hill. 

Then we could see Pamplona in the distance and knew we were close to Puente la Reina. 

But first, the camino passes the XII century octagonal church of Eunate. For unknown reasons, it was closed. But still beautiful outside. Many theories on why it was built in an octagonal shape, but nothing is really known. 

From there, 5 km to Puente la Reina with its beautiful bridge.  

Now we have a half hour wait till the bus comes to take us into Pamplona. I have made the reckless decision to sleep in a pension or hotel tonight. I'm just going to walk into the first nice looking place I see and pull out my woefully under-utilized credit card. So that tomorrow when I wake up at 5 am, I can just roll over and go back to sleep. 

Very hot

Leaving at 6 am is sensible when you've got 28 kms and the temps are in the mid-high 90s. We had about 18 kms to the only town on the day's walk and made good time there. No sun for the first couple of hours, and that really makes a difference. Lee is a faster walker so once we are out of town, we both settle into our paces, which means she always gets longer rests than I do since she waits for me. :-) 

The first 18 were really nice, through pine forests and far from the highway. 

After our rest stop, in the welcoming town of Izco, 

the camino turned into a big wide ag track through harvested wheat fields.

It was ok so long as it was unpaved, but big sections were hard asphalt and I would just let out a huge scream of anguish when the pavement appeared. Very cathartic, and no one was anywhere near me to hear it. 

The last few kms elicited another scream from me, this one of joy, when I saw that the last two kms were not only on dirt but in the SHADE!!! It was fabulous. 

We're in the small, pretty prosperous town of Monreal. The albergue has 21 beds, which is a pretty optimistic number since I think we will be alone here. 

We've had what is clearly our worst meal of the camino, though we are not yet sure what they will charge us. 

Tomorrow's high is expected to hit 40 (that's 104 Fahrenheit) so we will leave no later than 6. 

A short day to Sanguesa

We We had breakfast today in one of the two standing buildings in Ruesta, paying due homage to the people honored there, the Republican prisoners reputedly used to build the dam. 

The walk was short and sweet, only 23 km, with a stop in the middle in a really pretty little town in the hills. 

Bad picture but pretty little plaza. 

We are so lucky that there are well-spaced towns along this route with cafes for cold drinks or coffee. 

Today's walk was about 6 km up on a forest track, then about 4 km up and doesn't to Undues, where we had a break, then 14 or so really sunny and not too interesting kms into the town of Sanguesa, where there are a few really beautiful churches and official buildings. 

The albergue is municipally owned and operated. Spotlessly clean, nice bath and showers and clean sheets for each bed!!!  We could wash our clothes in an honest to goodness washing machine for 2€. We have had a good menu del dia and will now walk around to visit a few nice old (siglo XII-XIV) churches. 

All is well and we are very happy to be here. 

In a town in ruins

Today we had a 29 km day. We all ate breakfast together in the albergue. By 7 am we were on the road. Another off road day for the most part, with views of the Pyrenees every time we remembered to turn around. 

We had a coffee break in a town about 18 km beyond Arres. It was a nice hill town so up we went. 

Lots of political signs protesting the enlargement of the reservoir that's very close. The government wants to enlarge it so they can send water south to irrigate "campos de golf," according to some of the locals. 

We are now in a town with 250 houses totally in ruins, but with an albergue owned and operated by the CGT. It's an anarchist labor union that emerged during the Franco years. First time I've been checked into an albergue by an anarchist!!!  

The town was condemned back in the 50s when the government condemned the town to build the reservoir. At first they only condemned the agricultural lands and left the town alone. But since the residents were all farmers using those lands, they were able to convince the government to buy their houses as well. So the result is this abandoned town. 

We have talked with a lot of townspeople along the way and I've been surprised to hear that many local people still don't know the fate of their loved ones in the Civil War. Seems to me there needs to be some official government action to help these people know more than that their grandpa was put in a truck and never returned. 

Tomorrow off to a bigger city, Sanguesa, but since it's Sunday all will be closed. We are well but I have to admit I am getting s bit tired. I need a rest perhaps.

In a town in ruins

Today we had a 29 km day. We all ate breakfast together in the albergue. By 7 am we were on the road. Another off road day for the most part, with views of the Pyrenees every time we remembered to turn around. 

We had a coffee break in a town about 18 km beyond Arres. It was a nice hill town so up we went. 

Lots of political signs protesting the enlargement of the reservoir that's very close. The government wants to enlarge it so they can send water south to irrigate "campos de golf," according to some of the locals. 

We are now in a town with 250 houses totally in ruins, but with an albergue owned and operated by the CGT. It's an anarchist labor union that emerged during the Franco years. First time I've been checked into an albergue by an anarchist!!!  

The town was condemned back in the 50s when the government condemned the town to build the reservoir. At first they only condemned the agricultural lands and left the town alone. But since the residents were all farmers using those lands, they were able to convince the government to buy their houses as well. So the result is this abandoned town. 

We have talked with a lot of townspeople along the way and I've been surprised to hear that many local people still don't know the fate of their loved ones in the Civil War. Seems to me there needs to be some official government action to help these people know more than that their grandpa was put in a truck and never returned. 

Tomorrow off to a bigger city, Sanguesa, but since it's Sunday all will be closed. We are well but I have to admit I am getting s bit tired. I need a rest perhaps.

Some pictures of today's albergue

Leaving the Pyrenees behind

Yesterday was the day of the patron saint of Jaca, Santa Orosia. We arrived just as the procession was ending, which meant we arrived just as the drinking was starting. It was a festive afternoon. We ate lunch in a vegetarian restaurant, then spent some time washing clothes, etc, and finally took a walk around in early evening.  We knew there would be outdoor concerts all night and fireworks at midnight, so when we went to bed we had to choose between fresh air and more noise or closed window and less noise. We took the latter choice, and I slept all night. Lee slept less well. 

By 6:30 today (Friday) we were on the road again. We had a 25 km day to the tiny town of Arres, where there is a donativo albergue. This means that it is staffed by a volunteer hospitalero, who cleans and makes us dinner and breakfast. We leave a "donativo", the amount that we choose to give. That concept throws a lot of Americans for a loop, but I now get it, I think. Just pay it forward.  Last night's peregrinos left money to pay for your stay, so you do the same for tomorrow's. 

The walk more or less paralleled the national highway, but they did a great job of keeping us off road. We were either on a path along the river (on the right side of the highway) 

or on a path along the hillside (on the left side of the highway). 

And the towns were very well placed, since we had a coffee break town about 15 kms from our starting point. 

The last three kms were up a hill through scrub oak, always with view in the distance of the disappearing Pyrenees. The town is very pretty. 

We are now in town, perched on a ledge in town sipping a cold beer, icing my shins, and gazing out at the fields and mountains below.