Santiago whirlwind

Since I just got an email from a friend asking if I am ok, I thought I'd update to say I'm done and home.

Last Tuesday, the 14th, Paco arrived in Ponte Ulla in late afternoon.  I took him back a few km on the Camino into Ponte Ulla, so he could see a bit of the terrain I had covered that day.  We met an elderly couple (he, 88, she 83) who at 5:30 were still working in the same garden where I had seen them about five hours earlier.  We stopped and talked, and when I can get my camera pictures on the computer, I'll add a picture.  The man had had several serious health problems but assured me that the best therapy is working in the garden.  The woman told us she was from the little town where we were standing, but that her husband came from far away -- turns out he was from a village about 15 km to the east.  They told us about their life, their families, and how they roll with the punches that mother nature throws their way.  Because there has been no rain for more than two months, this year's harvest looks grim.  They were trimming their potatoes and getting them ready to harvest, but were not looking forward to a good yield.  A good dinner of pimientos de padron (those little green peppers  that are so yummy) and pulpo (just a few bites for me, I can't take a lot of octopus), and then off to bed.

On Wednesday, no need to rush since we were only 20 km from Santiago.  The first four km are uphill, to Outeiro, home of the last albergue on this route.  The hospitalera was there cleaning, and she was very happy to chat (saying she remembered me, since I've been there three times before) and show Paco around.  Paco has never stayed in an albergue and was a very inquisitive observer of this camino stuff.  It was so interesting hearing his observations and insights -- yes, he's right, we camino addicts are a bit freaky, but in a good (usually) way.  We had a great walk in, with the sobering moments a few km outside of Santiago when we crossed the railroad tracks at the point where the train had gone off the tracks a few years ago.  Many personal memorials were a sharp reminder of the randomness of tragedy, and it seems there has been no resolution of the many pending complaints and lawsuits.

Once in Santiago, we headed for the pilgrims office, where Paco watched me stand in line to get my compostela (I've lost count).  Three or four people behind the counter recognized me from my volunteer stint last May, and it was like a big homecoming.  They are such great people, I would love to do it again.  Then we had a meeting with Lee (we walked together from Montserrat till my knee gave out), who had found and adopted a dog, and off she went to Najera, where she is now a hospitalera for two weeks.

The rest of the time is kind of a blur.  Walks around, some shopping for olive oil and saffron and a few other things, seeing a few more friends, eating a good goodbye meal.  Then Thursday morning, at 7:30, I hopped into a cab (first time ever that I didn't take the bus!!!) to the airport and began what turned out to be a 25 hour trip home.  Lots of delays, but no real problems.

Now I'm home, jetlagged, trying to go through the piles on my desks at home and in the office. My knee is still not in perfect shape, lots of clicking, so I will be heading to my favorite physical therapist soon.  The Camino seems so distant, as it always does, but soon when the rush of immediate tasks is done I'll have time to sit and look back and put the pieces together.  And start thinking about next year's camino!

Weaving through the countryside

This very short stage, about 16 km from Bandeira to Ponte Ulla, weaves its way through little hamlets and past working farms. Lots of flowers and carefully tended gardens. 

(Note the high speed rail line above this little old sanctuary). 

With so much time, I was happy to walk a stretch with two women out for their morning walk. "Better for me than all those pills I take," one told me. They are both retired, but each still raises four cows for meat (the max they're allowed, apparently), tends a huge garden, and cares for a bunch of chickens. Not so retired, I thought. 

My next chat was with one of the owners of a new albergue in a beautiful old house  in Leiras. An Italian couple with small twin daughters has come back to the camino to give it a go. Fingers crossed, I wish them well. 

And then finally the old couple working in their dried out garden. Since the land is far from their home, they have no water access, and everything is dead or dying after months of no rain. As they were telling me their story, the high speed train went whizzing by in the distance, and I thought once again how Spain is really still two worlds. 

I'm in a pension where Paco will meet me this afternoon. It will be so great to have company on this last leg in. I have been meeting pilgrims these last few days, but there's nothing like finishing up with a good friend. Santiago tomorrow! 

Dragging a bit

I think this is the first Camino I've ever felt like I'm running out of gas. I've hobbled into Santiago before, with bad blisters or sharp heel pain, but I don't think I've ever felt this physically drained. It's not a bad feeling, it doesn't hurt, but it feels weird not to be able to walk at my normal pace. This has been my most challenging camino by far, not because of the terrain but because of the distances of the stages. I'm glad I did it, but equally glad that I had the time to slow down towards the end. Good thing Paco is arriving to push me the last 20 kms to Santiago. :-). 

Today's 24 kms were very nice. First three kms along a river walk, then a few more through an industrial park, just so you won't get spoiled by too much natural beauty. And then magically the Camino de Invierno was finished and I had arrived at the junction with the Camino Sanabres. I've walked this last part on at least four different Caminos that merge here but I always enjoy the Romanesque bridge in the woods 

 

And the little 12century church with a carving of Samson. 

And then the cool quiet kms into Silleda, 

about 15 kms into the walk, with good cafes for a long break. 

The last 8 or 9 were slow going but I'm still so happy and thankful to be doing this camino, even if I am starting to feel like the little engine that could!  

There is now an albergue in this town, Bandeira, but I thought it would be disloyal to the Hostal Victorino to jump ship after three earlier stays here -- see the many ways I can justify not staying in albergues?! 

Saturday stroll

I knew I was only going to walk the 22 km into Lalin, so there was no need to set an alarm or worry about time. The heat was the only concern but I was pretty sure I would have no trouble getting to my destination before it got too hot. Up at 7:25, out around 8. 

Lots of people out and about in the little hamlets on the first half of the walk. All eager to chat--about their cows, the lack of young people (a very common concern), the lack of rain, their barking dogs, etc. Nothing too earth shattering but I have found that the people on this route are very interested in the people who walk. They probably think we're a bit daft.  

The second part was very different. No towns, just a wide track of very loose and dusty dirt. Up and down a few times, sometimes through fields, sometimes pine forest, and even my favorite, scrub oak and a few other trees I can't identify. 

Lalin seems to be a lively little town. I got a special pilgrim deal in a nice little two-star hotel. 35 euros gets you a clean room and bath, main meal and breakfast. 

My knee is holding up but will be glad to be done in three days. Hard to believe I'm so close to Santiago. 

My rest day

Yesterday when I finished walking, I called my friends who own the Casa Santo Estevo in the Minho Valley. Ian drove to pick me up, and It was like arriving in my own little paradise. I spent the late afternoon walking through the woods and vineyards, with no pack on my back! And right next door is a beautiful 12century church so you know I'm in heaven. 

Dinner and then just sitting outside on the terrace, watching as the stars came out. It was an amazing evening. 

Today was just for hanging around. We went to a place on the Miño where a friend has a vineyard/bodega and took a very nice walk. Just beautiful. 

In late afternoon, they so nicely drove me back to where I stopped walking, the small town of Rodeiro. Here I am, with a room in the spotless Hospedaxe Guerra, where I slept last time I walked this route. A very friendly, small, family run place. And tomorrow I start the last few days to Santiago. 

How quickly things change

Yesterday the temps were in the 70s, I was walking with Rebekah, and we sauntered into Chantada with not one drop of sweat on our clothes or our bodies. Today the sun is beating down with the high projected for the mid 90s, I'm walking alone, and I just arrived at today's destination dripping and certainly not sauntering. I miss Rebekah, but things came up and she had to head home.  We'll walk together again, that's a no brainer. It was great. 

Today's walk, in spite of the heat, was very nice. Leaving town you pass an old "peto de animas," an alms box for the souls in purgatory. There are several of these on today's walk, all with carvings of the poor souls awaiting alms for their release. 

The walk first went through several small hamlets, and thankfully all the loose dogs I remember from last time were nowhere to be seen. Near the top of the day's steep climb (about 1700' I think), I saw a bus parked by the road with a small group busily putting out a large breakfast table. Turns out that right behind me was a group of 40, whose leader I had met last week by chance. They are a camino club from Ponferrada and have arranged breakfast stops, sag wagons, luggage transfer, meals, etc. I enjoyed a coffee break with them and had a delicious slice of country bread with jamón serrano, manchego, and membrillo. That gave me plenty of energy for the last push to the top, the Alto de Faro. Described as the spiritual center of Galicia, you can see all four Gallego provinces from the little church. 

From there it was an interminable walk along a windmill ridge, till I finally descended and found my way into town. 

Once again I'm incredibly lucky. My friends Ian and Irene, who own a BEAUTIFUL Casa rural (called Santo Estevo), are coming to pick me up so I can luxuriate with a rest day before the final push into Santiago. 

And even MORE good news. I got an email from my Madrid buddy Paco that he is (crazily) flying up to Santiago on the 13th. He will make his way to my last night's town, and we'll walk into Santiago together on Tuesday the 14th. How lucky am I??

Home on the 16th. If you have requests for anything I can get in Spain, speak up now!

Wow wow wow.

Today we had a relatively short 24 km day. The first 6 or 7 were all on asphalt and took us through one tiny little hamlet after another. At the end of our road walking, right before a steep two km descent to the Minho River, is a little 12th century church with some beautiful carving. Our favorite was the cow heads, which as Reb accurately described, are "sweet."  

Then came the descent on an old Roman mining road, known now as "Belesar's elbows" because of its shape. Once at the river level, you cross the bridge Andrade to ascend as much as you just descended. Amazing beautiful views, of river and forest and vineyards. 

On the way up the other side, a guy working in the fields invited us in to see the bodega's operations, from vineyards to aging to bottling. Very interesting. He took our picture and asked if he could post it on their Facebook page. So if you're ever looking at the Via Romana's Facebook page and see two familiar faces, you'll know why. 

We are now in the small city of Chantada, in a hotel that seems to have recently remodeled, leaving only half of its 60s decor. Clean and great showers, who cares about the style. 

I'm sure there are other days on other Caminos with as much beauty as this one, but today ranks right up there with the best of them. 

30 lovely kms from Quiroga

I'm We are in the very nice Casa Rural Torre Vilariño, having had a super walk through rural Galicia. Lots of pretty little hamlets, green tunnels, and the occasional mud bath. We arrived in the regional center city of Monforte de Lemos around 10 am and had a delicious cafe con leche served with a piece of chocolate and a delicate nut cookie. 1€. We are not in Catalunya any more. 

The last time I walked through here the marking was awful and I had a terrible time of it. Things have changed and the marking is excellent. People are very friendly, call us "cariños" (dears) and wish us well. Also unlike 4 years ago, the villagers know that we're walking to Santiago and have heard of the Camiño do Inverno. 

This has been one of those days for constant gratitude. How did I get so lucky??? 

Our place tonight. 

Fun in Pobra

With a small investment, the mayor transformed what used to be a somber river walk into a real treat for young and old!  

And the river continues pretty as ever after the town pool. 

93 degrees at 7:30 pm!  Early rising tomorrow. 

Beautiful walk to A Pobra de Brollon

GThough we heard there was a heat alert out, we made it easily and painlessly to our next stop, about 25 km from Quiroga. The first 14 were essentially though a pine forest, steady up and down, with lovely views and great walking surfaces (dirt occasionally covered with pine needles).  

After about 16 km we came to the perfect rest stop, a tiny hamlet with a pretty old bridge and a nice grassy bank for sitting and having our sandwich. Very refreshing and beautiful. 

 

The last 8 or 9 started out very hot and kind of reminiscent of yesterday's end of stage slog, but after a few kms of sunny ascents, we got ack into the groove and were soon in the little town of A Povra. Reb had stayed in this little Hostal before and it is a friendly family run cafe-restaurant with a few rooms upstairs. The señora will wash our clothes (oh what luxury) and we are going to have a home cooked meal, so we are quite content. And, fingers crossed, Reb may even walk all the way with me into Santiago!!!  

Hot day to Quiroga.

The GPS says only 28.5 but it felt like a lot more. We left early and the first part of the walk was along a totally unused paved road with great views down to the Sil River. 

It was cloudy at first but by noon the sun was out in full force. We went through several towns that are hanging on to life by the smallest of margins. Very few residents under 60 or even 70 in most of these places. 

We found a little shack by the river where we could sit in the shade and have a cold drink. That felt good, but those last 9 km from there to town were mostly sunny and hot (with the exception of one long green tunnel down to the water and then back up the other side. 

We were very happy to arrive in Quiroga, whose main street seemed impossibly long. We passed the albergue and were quite relieved that we weren't going to be sleeping there, as the place was overrun with a huge group of young teens. Finally we came to the Hostal Quiper, got a two bed room for 30€ and are happy just lying clean on the bed with our sweaty clothes washed and hanging outside. Life is good. 

Making my way --slowly

I left the pension today around 7, knowing that I had an extremely short walk. Great timing, the 13-14 km were very flat and virtually no rocks!! Just unpaved and flat or some paved and flat. Not too much inspiring scenery, but there were some pretty river views. 

My knee was very cooperative and only squawked at me once or twice. But then, slowing down and being patient seemed to do the trick. 

I was in town by about 9:15, which felt really odd. But I got my very first proper desayuno, with a croissant, seated in a  nice covered terrace with flowers. About ten minutes into this luxurious coffee, the phone rang and it was my good friend Paco from Madrid. These unexpected contacts are so terrific, they just shoot the warmth of friendship through my veins, especially when I'm walking alone. We are trying to work out a rendezvous on the camino before Santiago, which would be great. 

I'm in the private albergue run by Asun, president of the local camino asociarían. Her 92 year old mother is still very active and loves to talk. They are wonderful people.

 Asun is working hard on the long delayed but often promised official recognition for this camino. She is guardedly optimistic that the wheels are rolling and it won't be long. It would make a huge difference in the viability of this camino and would undoubtedly be the catalyst for more albergues. We have spoken with many "locals" about the need for albergues, but it's the quintessential chicken and egg problem. People don't want to invest in an albergue when there are so few pilgrims, but more pilgrims won't come because there are so few albergues. 

My good friend Rebekah, who lives along the Camino Frances but has walked the Invierno, should be stepping off a local train around 8 pm, and we will start out for Quiroga together tomorrow morning. So lucky to have such good company coming my way! 

A new camino

Yesterday was a long day for me and my knee, so I knew I was going to have to slow down. Today's walk had a lot of descent, not the best for a gimpy knee, but I met up with the gang after 8 km and told them I was slowing down. It was hard to say goodbye to Lee, but it was clearly the right thing. 

The walk was lovely-- the first 8 km were through the mountains down tip the border with Galicia. The next 20 km were along the Sil River with ups and downs but nothing too strenuous. No pics because my phone battery was dead. 

Now I've got a revised walking schedule with only a few days close to 30 km, and none more than 31, so I should be fine. 

I am now in O Barco de Valdeorras, which has a very pretty park on the Sil river. Here I said goodbye to Armando. Who knows, we may all meet up again in Santiago.

I have spent a few cool hours in the park watching the knight kids go tubing over some little white water rapids, while the small kids feed the ducks and stay in shallow water. 

  I now have less than two weeks walking so I have to forget about this knee thing and just enjoy!!! 

In As Medulas

Lee decided to stick with the Camjno de Invierno (and me), so off we went at about 6:45. 

Much darker here at that hour that further east. (That's the moon!!)

Shortly after getting on the camino, we met a young guy Armando, an attorney from Avila, and I walked with him the rest of the way while Lee went on ahead. It was a lovely off-road walk with an occasional stretch of pavement thrown in. 

Two big ascents, one up to the Castle of Cornatel (closed, victim of budget cuts),

 then down to the town of Borrenes with a good Kas de Limón bar stop, then 7 more up to As Médulas. It's an amazing place, where Romans mined gold on the mountain by channelling rushing water through the mts. till it exploded the mountain and the gold come pouring out. We were even able to walk through part of the canal system, long tunnels on three different levels of the mountain. As a guy in the museum explained, the Romans figured out how to turn water into the equivalent of dynamite. The result is eerie looking, with there'd mountain innards shooting up into the sky but  spectacular in its own way. 

Of course this exploration added 8 or 9 km to a 31 km day but at least it was without a pack!!

Not sure how far I'll get tomorrow with my slightly unhappy knee but there are choices at 9, 18, and 28 km. So we'll see!  

Ponferrada

A Mexican restaurant in Ponferrada???

Plaza Mayor at dusk. 

Travel Day

Our 8 hour train ride is underway. The first leg was a regional train to Vitoria. That's a city I've never visited but we only had an hour layover so there was no time to leave the station. 

Now we're on the second train, which will soon arrive in Burgos and then trace the Camino Francés, through León, Astorga and finally Ponferrada. 

My knee is "talking to me."  I can walk but there is something going on, no doubt from some of the awful descents we had in the last week or so. The plan is to start taking Diclofenaco, which Lee has used for knee pain in the past. I'll also buy a good knee brace to stabilize things and keep fingers crossed. Since we have dropped our previous plan to walk in the gorgeous Valle del Silencio as we did last year, that opens up some days. That means I can shorten a few of the monster stages I did last time I walked the Camino de Invierno. 

But basically this means it's just time to play it by ear. Lee will have a tough decision to make. Should she slow down with me and hope I make it?  But what if I have to stop a few days in on the Invierno?  She definitely doesn't want to walk alone and this is such a solitary camino, she might find herself stranded. So she is just going to have to decide which camino to take in Ponferrada. Gimpy old me just doesn't have to make a choice--just start walking and hope for the best. 

If my addition is correct I have walked more than 825 kms in 27 days. That's about a 30 km average, which I now know is pretty close to my limit. From now on I will be less ambitious in my stages. Live and learn. 

So end the musings of this peregrina.