Thursday, July 9, 2015

How quickly things change

Yesterday the temps were in the 70s, I was walking with Rebekah, and we sauntered into Chantada with not one drop of sweat on our clothes or our bodies. Today the sun is beating down with the high projected for the mid 90s, I'm walking alone, and I just arrived at today's destination dripping and certainly not sauntering. I miss Rebekah, but things came up and she had to head home.  We'll walk together again, that's a no brainer. It was great. 

Today's walk, in spite of the heat, was very nice. Leaving town you pass an old "peto de animas," an alms box for the souls in purgatory. There are several of these on today's walk, all with carvings of the poor souls awaiting alms for their release. 


The walk first went through several small hamlets, and thankfully all the loose dogs I remember from last time were nowhere to be seen. Near the top of the day's steep climb (about 1700' I think), I saw a bus parked by the road with a small group busily putting out a large breakfast table. Turns out that right behind me was a group of 40, whose leader I had met last week by chance. They are a camino club from Ponferrada and have arranged breakfast stops, sag wagons, luggage transfer, meals, etc. I enjoyed a coffee break with them and had a delicious slice of country bread with jamón serrano, manchego, and membrillo. That gave me plenty of energy for the last push to the top, the Alto de Faro. Described as the spiritual center of Galicia, you can see all four Gallego provinces from the little church. 


From there it was an interminable walk along a windmill ridge, till I finally descended and found my way into town. 


Once again I'm incredibly lucky. My friends Ian and Irene, who own a BEAUTIFUL Casa rural (called Santo Estevo), are coming to pick me up so I can luxuriate with a rest day before the final push into Santiago. 

And even MORE good news. I got an email from my Madrid buddy Paco that he is (crazily) flying up to Santiago on the 13th. He will make his way to my last night's town, and we'll walk into Santiago together on Tuesday the 14th. How lucky am I??

Home on the 16th. If you have requests for anything I can get in Spain, speak up now!

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