Saturday stroll

I knew I was only going to walk the 22 km into Lalin, so there was no need to set an alarm or worry about time. The heat was the only concern but I was pretty sure I would have no trouble getting to my destination before it got too hot. Up at 7:25, out around 8. 

Lots of people out and about in the little hamlets on the first half of the walk. All eager to chat--about their cows, the lack of young people (a very common concern), the lack of rain, their barking dogs, etc. Nothing too earth shattering but I have found that the people on this route are very interested in the people who walk. They probably think we're a bit daft.  

The second part was very different. No towns, just a wide track of very loose and dusty dirt. Up and down a few times, sometimes through fields, sometimes pine forest, and even my favorite, scrub oak and a few other trees I can't identify. 

Lalin seems to be a lively little town. I got a special pilgrim deal in a nice little two-star hotel. 35 euros gets you a clean room and bath, main meal and breakfast. 

My knee is holding up but will be glad to be done in three days. Hard to believe I'm so close to Santiago. 

My rest day

Yesterday when I finished walking, I called my friends who own the Casa Santo Estevo in the Minho Valley. Ian drove to pick me up, and It was like arriving in my own little paradise. I spent the late afternoon walking through the woods and vineyards, with no pack on my back! And right next door is a beautiful 12century church so you know I'm in heaven. 

Dinner and then just sitting outside on the terrace, watching as the stars came out. It was an amazing evening. 

Today was just for hanging around. We went to a place on the Miño where a friend has a vineyard/bodega and took a very nice walk. Just beautiful. 

In late afternoon, they so nicely drove me back to where I stopped walking, the small town of Rodeiro. Here I am, with a room in the spotless Hospedaxe Guerra, where I slept last time I walked this route. A very friendly, small, family run place. And tomorrow I start the last few days to Santiago. 

How quickly things change

Yesterday the temps were in the 70s, I was walking with Rebekah, and we sauntered into Chantada with not one drop of sweat on our clothes or our bodies. Today the sun is beating down with the high projected for the mid 90s, I'm walking alone, and I just arrived at today's destination dripping and certainly not sauntering. I miss Rebekah, but things came up and she had to head home.  We'll walk together again, that's a no brainer. It was great. 

Today's walk, in spite of the heat, was very nice. Leaving town you pass an old "peto de animas," an alms box for the souls in purgatory. There are several of these on today's walk, all with carvings of the poor souls awaiting alms for their release. 

The walk first went through several small hamlets, and thankfully all the loose dogs I remember from last time were nowhere to be seen. Near the top of the day's steep climb (about 1700' I think), I saw a bus parked by the road with a small group busily putting out a large breakfast table. Turns out that right behind me was a group of 40, whose leader I had met last week by chance. They are a camino club from Ponferrada and have arranged breakfast stops, sag wagons, luggage transfer, meals, etc. I enjoyed a coffee break with them and had a delicious slice of country bread with jamón serrano, manchego, and membrillo. That gave me plenty of energy for the last push to the top, the Alto de Faro. Described as the spiritual center of Galicia, you can see all four Gallego provinces from the little church. 

From there it was an interminable walk along a windmill ridge, till I finally descended and found my way into town. 

Once again I'm incredibly lucky. My friends Ian and Irene, who own a BEAUTIFUL Casa rural (called Santo Estevo), are coming to pick me up so I can luxuriate with a rest day before the final push into Santiago. 

And even MORE good news. I got an email from my Madrid buddy Paco that he is (crazily) flying up to Santiago on the 13th. He will make his way to my last night's town, and we'll walk into Santiago together on Tuesday the 14th. How lucky am I??

Home on the 16th. If you have requests for anything I can get in Spain, speak up now!

Wow wow wow.

Today we had a relatively short 24 km day. The first 6 or 7 were all on asphalt and took us through one tiny little hamlet after another. At the end of our road walking, right before a steep two km descent to the Minho River, is a little 12th century church with some beautiful carving. Our favorite was the cow heads, which as Reb accurately described, are "sweet."  

Then came the descent on an old Roman mining road, known now as "Belesar's elbows" because of its shape. Once at the river level, you cross the bridge Andrade to ascend as much as you just descended. Amazing beautiful views, of river and forest and vineyards. 

On the way up the other side, a guy working in the fields invited us in to see the bodega's operations, from vineyards to aging to bottling. Very interesting. He took our picture and asked if he could post it on their Facebook page. So if you're ever looking at the Via Romana's Facebook page and see two familiar faces, you'll know why. 

We are now in the small city of Chantada, in a hotel that seems to have recently remodeled, leaving only half of its 60s decor. Clean and great showers, who cares about the style. 

I'm sure there are other days on other Caminos with as much beauty as this one, but today ranks right up there with the best of them. 

30 lovely kms from Quiroga

I'm We are in the very nice Casa Rural Torre Vilariño, having had a super walk through rural Galicia. Lots of pretty little hamlets, green tunnels, and the occasional mud bath. We arrived in the regional center city of Monforte de Lemos around 10 am and had a delicious cafe con leche served with a piece of chocolate and a delicate nut cookie. 1€. We are not in Catalunya any more. 

The last time I walked through here the marking was awful and I had a terrible time of it. Things have changed and the marking is excellent. People are very friendly, call us "cariños" (dears) and wish us well. Also unlike 4 years ago, the villagers know that we're walking to Santiago and have heard of the Camiño do Inverno. 

This has been one of those days for constant gratitude. How did I get so lucky??? 

Our place tonight. 

Fun in Pobra

With a small investment, the mayor transformed what used to be a somber river walk into a real treat for young and old!  

And the river continues pretty as ever after the town pool. 

93 degrees at 7:30 pm!  Early rising tomorrow. 

Beautiful walk to A Pobra de Brollon

GThough we heard there was a heat alert out, we made it easily and painlessly to our next stop, about 25 km from Quiroga. The first 14 were essentially though a pine forest, steady up and down, with lovely views and great walking surfaces (dirt occasionally covered with pine needles).  

After about 16 km we came to the perfect rest stop, a tiny hamlet with a pretty old bridge and a nice grassy bank for sitting and having our sandwich. Very refreshing and beautiful. 

 

The last 8 or 9 started out very hot and kind of reminiscent of yesterday's end of stage slog, but after a few kms of sunny ascents, we got ack into the groove and were soon in the little town of A Povra. Reb had stayed in this little Hostal before and it is a friendly family run cafe-restaurant with a few rooms upstairs. The señora will wash our clothes (oh what luxury) and we are going to have a home cooked meal, so we are quite content. And, fingers crossed, Reb may even walk all the way with me into Santiago!!!